Protecting previously chemically treated hair – Transition Tips

Hair compromised by chemicals needs protection before applying HAIRPRINT.

To transition from (previously) chemically treated hair to HAIRPRINT, we would advise that your new hair growth is as substantial as 2cm in length. If your new growth is not as significant as what would be ideal,  stretch it as far as you can. We have had satisfactory results on smaller regrowth’s, especially on the finer hair types.

Before using the HAIRPRINT Colour Restorer kit, cleanse the hair with our cleanser shampoo range. This range has been designed to remove all the blockers that coat your hair and scalp. The ideal cleansing shampoo depends on what daily products you have been using, the condition of your scalp, and the state of the water used to wash your hair i.e. is it chemically laden?

Below is a list of our cleanser shampoos that will help you identify which one is ideal for you.

1.Clarifying Shampoo – Removes build-up from the hair.

2.Exfoliating Shampoo – Removes impurities and dry skin cells that block the follicles and cuticles.

3.Chelating Shampoo – Removes minerals from hard water and chlorine deposits.

We recommend you begin using the cleansing shampoos at least 24 – 48 hours before using HAIRPRINT Colour Restorer treatment. In doing this, you will remove any residue and build-up, detoxing the hair and scalp, readying it for HAIRPRINT.

If you have hard water, begin your treatment process with our Chelating Shampoo,  which works as a clarifying shampoo, chelator, mineral and oxidizer remover in one. On application day, wash your select hair with the Chelating Shampoos before you begin the full HAIRPRINT Colour Restorer application process.

Thoroughly wash your hair with the Prepare sachet, as directed in the kit

  • Wet hair and shampoo with the whole sachet in the kit, unless your hair is very short or incredibly fine.
  • Allow the shampoo to work through your hair for at least 5 – 30 minutes.
  • Rinse well.
  • Towel dry hair well on the ends that need protecting.
  • To protect the previously chemically treated hair, use real butter (coconut or shea butter). Once melted or softened enough to apply, work through the hair you are protecting.
  • This coating will not rinse off during the 3 step application of the kit. AVOID OILS.
  • If the area or colour line from where you need to protect is not visible wet, gently dry with a hand held dryer.
  • Once the oils are applied, use a water spray dampen the root area again. Applying to dry hair is not advised it will cause you to use more product than you need.
  • Follow the standard application for the roots from Step 1.
  • Once the all three stages have completed, thoroughly rinse then Shampoo and Condition to finish the process.
  • The protected ends might feel heavy from the butter. If this is the case apply shampoo to dry hair the next time you wash.

How chemicals damage hair and how to repair it

Chemicals damage hair not only externally but cause havoc on the internal genetic makeup found in the cortex of the hair shaft which is in essence, the hair’s ‘print’ (map).

The print or map of your hair shaft is often no longer present in chemically treated hair.

Damage done from chemicals and how to restore the vitality
Chemically damaged hair is more porous than healthy natural hair.

 

It takes time and nurturing to restore chemically damaged hair back to its natural state.

Hair dyes, perms, relaxers, and wave products change the natural hair matrix while doing what they are tasked to do. Aside from the fact that chemicals can cause acute dermatitis without warning, these chemicals are electron scavengers that take any atom they can find, including from cells inside the hair follicles. This damages the melanocyte and keratinocyte cells in the follicle (these cells make your skin and hair colour). Over time, this may accelerate the rate at which your hair loses its colour, and causes grey with diminished quality.

The result is hair that is dull, thinner and brittle.  If you make a start the journey, your hair will be healthier long into your life.

If your hair is chemically damaged and you are experiencing severe split ends and brittle/broken hair, this extent of pre-existing damage makes the hair fragile and possibly prone to further damage. The best cure for damaged hair is healthy new growth. We only recommend treating new growth when your hair and scalp are ready. It will be best to rebalance both before using HAIRPRINT. It’s a process to restore the vitality of the hair but well worth it!

*Our selection of shampoos and conditioners can facilitate this, remove residues and prepare the hair while you grow out your roots for a HAIRPRINT application. Make sure you are using the right colour. If you are not getting the results you want and need any guidance, please complete the free advice form or make contact. We are here to help.

Troubleshooting coverage, right natural colour

TROUBLESHOOTING

1. Coverage

Uneven Grey Coverage - Spotty, Poor or Minimal Coverage

If the coverage is minimal or there is uneven coverage, it may be due to incorrect application of the product. Being mechanical when applying to hair or roots is imperative for all three steps. If the product is just “painted” on to the hair, the result will not be optimum.

Work the Colour Restorer treatment into the hair like you would a mask/conditioner.

No Coverage or Partial Coverage of Grey

If HAIRPRINT can access the hair, it will work! Go through the 5 point checklist to identify why your coverage is not as you had wished. If you have not gotten the result you expected, please contact us,  we are happy to troubleshoot with you.

2. Colour

Darker than Normal Hair Colour

It takes approximately 7-10 days for HAIRPRINT to stabilise within the hair. During this period the hair may appear darker than your natural colour. After this time, the colour and tone will adjust to your natural colour.

If you have hair that is free of bleach, dyes and other chemicals but you are experiencing a darker than normal hair colour just after applying HAIRPRINT, please allow for this adjustment period.

Sometimes our natural colour can be darker than we expect. The hair and its continuous exposure to chlorine, shampoo, sunlight, and the environment are what we see every day. However, when restoring our real hair colour,  often appears darker than we realised. In addition, as we age, our hair gets darker.

If your hair has been subject to bleach, dyes or other chemical processing and you are experiencing a colour darker than usual; attribute this colour change to the level of porosity in your hair.

Porous hair takes up more colour than normal. Dyes and bleaches progressively damage the external and internal structure of the hair to strip and remove natural colour. They then deposit aniline or coal tar dyes in its place.

When the internal colour structure of the hair is damaged; the pigment is no longer structured properly. It is here when the processed hair turns darker. The good news is that new hair growth contains your correct colour and when using HAIRPRINT, the new hair will show your natural colour.

Please go to Transition Tips to ensure that does not happen again.

If you feel you’d like to lighten your hair colour, we recommend using lemon juice as the best way to do this.

Hot oil treatments will also help lift and remove colour while naturally conditioning the hair. Use natural raw oils like coconut, olive oil, or grape seed oil. You may also use a few drops of your favourite essential oil to scent the treatment and make it a bit stronger. Here is a link to an article with visual examples and steps by step directions: How to make a hot oil treatment.

Chelating Shampoo can bind to eumelanin and also lift colour out slowly. Using this every 5-7 days to remove colour slowly.

You can follow the above processes or recipes as many times as you like on any darkened sections of hair.   The lemon process typically lightens one shade per application. The oil treatment varies and depends on how long you leave the treatment on your hair. You may leave a hot oil treatment on for up to 3 hours, and it will remove 1-2 shades of colour per treatment. You can follow with use of one our Clarifying, Chelating or Exfoliating Shampoos to remove any residual oils as these often help remove some colour as well.

Fading colour at the roots

Overproduction of sebum, a waxy coating made by the sebaceous glands, can coat the root hairs and prevent HAIRPRINT from working. If unremoved, the HAIRPRINT pigment can adhere to the sebum on the outside of the hair and rub or wash off in a few days.

Overproduction is caused by overactive sebaceous glands (oily skin) or by using shampoos that are too harsh, shampoos that strip the scalp and stimulate the glands.

If you are experiencing fading at the roots, we recommend adding a wash with a Clarifying Shampoo before using the Pretreatment to help cleanse your scalp of sebum and oils that are coating the hair.

Continue to use the Clarifying Shampoo in the future before you apply HAIRPRINT.

Fading colour on all the hair

If your hair colour is fading after a week or two, it is most likely due to residue on the outside of the hair. Many hair care substances create a coating on the outside of the hair that HAIRPRINT adheres to, and it will wash away as you shampoo your hair over a week or two.

Please read through our Blocker FAQ and evaluate the ingredients in your hair care products.

Brassy Colour

A ‘brassy’ colour may appear after a few weeks and can be due to some factors, so please read through the list and see which one applies to your situation.

  1. Your shampoo and conditioner contain sulphates. Please check your shampoo/conditioner and discontinue if necessary.
  2. You have Hard Water with iron minerals. These can build up on the hair and affect your colour either immediately or over time. Please add a Chelating Shampoo into your monthly hair care regimen.
  3. You unknowingly have henna in your shampoo and conditioner that can be more fully activated by HAIRPRINT. Please check the ingredients of your shampoo and conditioner carefully and discontinue it if necessary.
  4. You are exposed to the sun regularly. If you spend a lot of time outdoors, please wear a hat and cover your hair as often as possible. UV opens up the hair and causes pigment to wash out.

The brassy colour should not return after your next HAIRPRINT application as long as you remove the underlying cause of the colour change.

Green Or Blue Tinge To The Hair

If you see either a green or blue tinge to your hair after using the HAIRPRINT Colour Restorer Kit, this can be due to the prior use of bleach or from chlorine in your hair. The green is usually caused by the copper found in chlorinated swimming pools. Trying to lighten Indigo based henna products can also produce a green or ashy tinge in the hair.  Metallic salts found in dyes and other hair care products can also cause changes in colour.

To neutralize this colour, you can place a coating of ketchup on those sections of hair (it is inexpensive and effective, even if it sounds strange). Work it through the affected parts of your hair as you would a conditioner. You may wish to use a shower cap or wrap those sections in foil to prevent dripping and staining of your clothing. Leave on your hair for 30 minutes. Shampoo and condition your hair as you normally would.

To remove chlorine from your hair before your next application of HAIRPRINT, please read up on blockers.

If you have bleached hair, please follow our Transition Tips.

3. Texture

Dry Hair

HAIRPRINT does not make your hair dry. However, the alkaline Pretreatment can reveal the pre-existing dry state of your hair. We use many products on our hair whose function we do not fully understand. When we remove any ‘artificial’ coatings, it may reveal how dry our hair is.

Dryness is a temporary condition that usually resolves itself within a few days as you shampoo and condition with gentle sulphate free products.

Some additional ideas to help restore the hair’s moisture are:

  1. Instead of washing your hair with shampoo, rinse with a mixture of water and apple cider vinegar in a 4:1 ratio. Condition your hair as usual.
  2. Moisturise your hair with oils like jojoba, almond, and argan.
  3. Use a deep conditioning treatment on your hair.

4. Staining

Clothing and Towels

Hairprint can stain clothing and towels. Please wear and use dark clothing and towels during the application process. Many customers have a dedicated Hairprint application shirt that they only wear during the application process, as well as a dedicated Hairprint towel that they use each time. You may also want to wear a Hairdressing Cape to protect your clothing.

Surfaces

HAIRPRINT can stain porous surfaces. We recommend wearing gloves at all times when using this product. HAIRPRINT is considered to be an “organic matter stain”.

To prevent staining of your sink, bathtub, or other surfaces, please wipe away HAIRPRINT splatters after each application step.

Non-porous material/Sealed surfaces: To remove stains, use soap and water.

Porous material: OxiClean® or any similar non-chlorine organic bleach can remove organic matter stains. If the stains are stubborn a paste of 1:1 water to product left on for 24-48 hours should remove stains.

For especially stubborn stains, customers have reported the Mr Clean MagicEraser® handles them well.

*For special materials: Please make sure you always follow any product manufacturer directions as certain materials may not be suited to particular types of cleanser or traditional removal techniques.*

Skin

HAIRPRINT can stain the skin if left on for too long. The pigmentation of the skin will be temporary. The following suggestions will eliminate or minimise staining:

Please note: The drier your skin is, the more likely it will be to stain.

  1. Wear gloves at all times when using this product.
  2. Apply a thin coat of pure shea butter on your forehead and temples, blocking HAIRPRINT from accessing your skin there.
  3. Wear and use dark clothing and towels during the application process. Many customers have a dedicated HAIRPRINT shirt, towel and washcloth to use each time they apply the product.
  4. After each step of the HAIRPRINT process, take a few minutes with a wet washcloth to wipe away HAIRPRINT on the forehead. Be sure to rinse out your washcloth each time.

Scalp Staining

HAIRPRINT can stain the skin of the scalp when the skin is dehydrated, or when there is a buildup of dry skin cells there. The pigmentation of the skin is temporary.

If this occurs, you may see flakes of colour falling off of your head. These are the pigmented dry skin cells from your scalp in the natural shedding process of your skin.

Please note: The drier your skin is, the more likely it will be to stain, and the more flakes you may see.

If this occurs, please do one or all of the following when you wash your hair to loosen and remove the pigmented skin cells:

  • Use your fingers to scrub your scalp.
  • Exfoliate your scalp with a scalp scrub or use a Scalp Massage Brush to clean your scalp.